Catherine’s Blog

Parasol

Originally uploaded by LPM

In light of the lack of more thrilling content, I am going to explore some interesting cultural things I noticed in Japan that only two weeks of travel can touch on in such a profound way.
First the travelling alone thing, I noted a couple of times I was considered a bit of an oddity, travelling on my own. It took a bit to realise that in hotels and the such like, single women in general were rare and Japanese women even more so. Most Japanese women seem to travel in a pair or couple and the older women in packs that travel on buses. Feminism does not have much sway of the culturally entrenched sexism so this really is not that surprising. I don’t think it will put me off travelling on my own again but I now have a better idea what to expect and how to deal with all. The main reason is that being one your own generally means unwanted attention from business men, in the form of straight up pick up lines or inappropriate touching. In my experience clumsy attempts. In these situations it pays to be firm and to call them out on their behaviour.

Japan is a very safe society, I put my bag down in Harajuku, on a public footpath, mobile, wallet, passport, camera kit inside it. A practised eye knows what a lowpro bag looks like and is likely to contain. It was not touched and I was safe in the knowledge I only had to keep a small eye on it. It is a very odd situation compared with London, considering that because this was near a station it would have been either stolen of blown up by bomb disposal. They are very law abiding, there is little litter on the streets and they are very courteous, there is no real way to work out what their feelings are when interacting with them. As someone else noted, the amount of repression that goes on in a society to produce this is quite scary. The Japanese suicide rate gives an inkling of how this social conditioning can break a brain. There are very many positives to the Japanese way of life, the safety and cleanliness but to what cost? Is that cost too high?

I find some attitudes to different things very odd. Take smoking, smokers are not allowed to smoke on the streets and they huddle around smoking spots or crowd into smoking rooms. There is no smoking in restaurants during lunch hours but there is during the dinner services. The impression I got this was more for litter curtailing than public health! There are cigarette vending machines all over the place. It is all very confusing really, it is quite difficult to gauge the amount of the population that do smoke as well. The same goes for recycling, there is recycling points every where, you are encouraged to recycle and divide your rubbish. Bins for PET bottles and cans are provided next to the vending machines. You divide your rubbish in McDonald’s but when you purchase a take away from the same establishment a single value meal is placed in a large bag, the drinks and burger along with the chips placed in separate paper bags. So for a value meal you end up with three paper bags It is all very odd and quite wasteful. This disbelieve stretches to the electricity use in the commercial areas, the huge light displays, lights on all the time and the huge television screens that play music. All the time.
The brings me neatly to the noise pollution, goodness me, I thought London was bad. Trains, they announce the stations, the side the doors are opening and the connecting lines in both Japanese and English which is very helpful. Then just before the doors close there is music played, a little distinctive tune, in Tokyo this distinctive tune is different for each station and I think each platform and possibly train. Oddly, on the trains use of mobiles is actively discouraged and you are asked to put them on silent as well. If there is a TV screen it plays sound besides the ones on the train. Out on the streets trucks roll around playing the latest new realise from a band with the album promotion displayed on the back all lit up. There is also people in cars with loud hailers on top shouting about something, I don’t know what as it was generally in Japanese. Then there is the odd come and by stuff people sometimes with loud hailers and all over excited, the funniest being the promoting of a McDonald’s BBQ cheese burger by no less than four people out side a large store. Then there is the traffic lights that play a little set of chimes when you cross, the chimes differ for which section of the road you are crossing.

The odd thing is that you notice all this noise but you don’t understand how distracting it is until it is not there.

The crossing sounds I suspect are there for blind people. One this I noticed was the amount of white canes and guides I saw. The ground raised tiles were every where and there seemed to be sections in the train stations that a blind person could navigate more easily like barriers at the top of stairs and corners to stop the crowds taking over the entire area. There was a lot of Braille around as well. The amount of blind people just seemed to be more visible than say in the UK, they seem to lead quite independent lives.
The upshot for me is I don’t think I could live in Japan long term, I think tourist visiting and possibly teaching English for a time would be good but that would be the extent of it. The culture and the people are fascinating but you would always been an outsider.

Last time we saw our blogger she was in Nikko, the following day, Thursday, she chose to take it all a bit easier than previous days.  That was the plan.
I slept in and went down for breakfast at 8.30.  It was a Japanese version of Western style which sometimes can be odd, there was bacon, scrambled eggs and wedges.  Yes, wedges and bit of tomato sauce.  There was salad and fruit on the table.  I also got a bowl of rice, though odd for breakfast it does set you up for the day.  I avoided the pickles and the seaweed.
Then some internet surfing followed in the lobby and then I planned my day with the help of the hotel clerk.
I walked from the hotel into town, in search of postcards and photographic opportunities.  I found a couple of cute little shrines, they really are everywhere, including ones in the back yard, tiny ones with their own little red gates.  I also managed to find a Christian church, Anglican, a tiny little stone church with a porch full of slippers.  So off popped the shoes and had a little look, it was a fairly plain and simple as churches go, it is more chapel than church and its sight is odd in the traditional Japanese skyline.
I was following three ladies when one jumped in the air and retreated back very quickly.  There was a snake on the footpath, a striped one.  Language is never a barrier when you have a camera and they parted when they saw the camera and allowed me to take photos.
Then a stop at the famous Shinkyo bridge and trying to get a shot whilst the tourists crossed it and buses shook the bridge I was on.  Then a win in the post office for quick purchases and information in the tourist office.  I wander upstairs in the tourist office and saw a local display of poetry with hand painted water colours.  The poetry was pretty to look at, the calligraphy just so pretty.  It was a pity I could not read it.
Then I caught a bus back and to find the cold buddas but got distracted by the Imperial palace and had a wander through there.  Gasping at the wonderful wall paintings and beautiful outdoor scenes then it was shaking my head at the quite odd Western carpets that were used to show imperial power and willingness to take on western ideas.
I then headed for the buddas.  I found them, lined up along the river bank looking out at the leaves turning and river racing past.  They were wearing little red knitted hats and aprons, I am sure there is a reason for it and someone will enlightening me as to the whys and wherefores as about 50 buddas are wearing them.  The walk along the river was lovely and very relaxing.  My legs were sore and I headed back to the hotel.
I warmed up and had a nap before heading  down for dinner, which was another five course but I was not sitting out like a crazy lady.  Then it was time for a bath, long soak with other women, I was so pleased I had read up on bathing etiquette and was very warm and squeaky clean afterwards.  I changed into the hotel pyjamas and went down stairs to find out what the procedure for my treat was.  I met an English fellow drinking red wine in the lobby but had the conversation cut short by the masseuse arriving.  She was a delicately built middle aged Japanese woman who proceeded to knead and pummel me.  She touched my shoulders and sucked her teeth at me, even with her limited Japanese she made her displeasure and concern at the state of the back.  She worked very hard at trying to free up the muscles.  She did not make the knots disappear but certainly made me feel a lot better.
I headed downstairs and helped the English fellow, Stephen, drink his red wine and then we moved onto the vending machine beer.  We were joined by a Taiwanese teacher and two Japanese men in their hotel blue pyjamas.  The two guys also bought beer and we had a lot of giggle until 2am we were told to shhh by another guest.  Opps.

Friday morning was a little dry at the 7am week up call.  I woke Stephen and he joined me for an odd breakfast.  I then packed and headed back to Tokyo.  I should have blogged on the train, instead I slept.
I found the new hotel, the Toyoko Inn, a chain of hotels Stephen had recommended.  The staff were very helpful, really helpful and I left my bags with them and headed out to find  a number of shops that I had been asked to by from.
First effort was Shinjuku to find the magical land of fabric, just off a pedestrian street lined with porn shops is the land of make believe.  A fabric shop that made me weep with joy and have a small nervous spending spree in my head.

I had to head back to the hotel to get shopping lists and figured booking in was an option now.  I did into a well laid out room with a little note on the bed telling me there was storage under the bed!  Win.  I found all the right shopping lists and felt the cave of fabric wonders was best left for the cold light of day and headed to Harajuku apparently a huge hundred yen shop.
I found it through the seething masses and then made a little error of judgement.  I bypassed the normal Goth shops and found one that made original pieces.  Opps, a lovely skirt that fits fell into my hands, I may have paid for it, and walked out.  Oh dear, that was an over spend that meant being careful with money.  I also spotted two western goths and asked them about clubs and stuff and they pointed me in the direction of a website that could help.
I went to the 100 yen shop and purchased a heap of stuff for Michael.  Then it was a restaurant Joyce had recommended and rescuing my JR pass I had dropped and no one stole!
It was late back to the hotel and a well earned sleep.

Saturday really was a shopping day, and therefore a little boring on the blogging front.  I bought electronics, fabric, buttons and tired to find some books, failed, then a lot of toys followed by a quest for a DVD that failed. I had visited four different suburbs by this stage and headed back to the hotel.
I thought about going out but to be honest as much as I hated the idea of Saturday in a hotel room on my own the thought of a nightclub where I knew no one and they may not speak my language was more than a little daunting.  I did think about it, and got quite sad.  I moped for a bit and then got a lovely  phone call the cheered me up by listening to the mope and then diverting it.  At 10pm I figured it was dinner time and due to the mop and not wanting to struggle with menus I got McDonald’s.

Sunday I was up early, finding the rice balls for breakfast nice and applying lots of make up.  Time to find some Harajuku kids.
I managed to find the very odd rockabillies having fun, dancing in leather like the fonze and drinking beer.
I found a very small group of kids and managed to take good photos, I don’t think the other photographers, well the western ones that me being gotheed up was the reason they stood still and let me ask them to more their poses.  They were intrigued with me as well and a Japanese man wanted my photo.
I went to the nearby shrine as it was three, five and seven day.  Three year old and seven year old girls and five year old boys going to the temple very much dressed up.
I got back to find a dinner invite from Stephen and headed out to meet him without changing.  I suspect after the PJ’s the Goth stuff was a little off for this fellow who comes from the very normal world of finance.
Dinner was a chopstick nightmare of noodles that were slippy, but yummy,
Them it was the hotel to pack my bags.

Monday was an odd day.  I packed the bags, got them downstairs.  I headed off to see Asimo the Honda robot which was very cool but the rest of the museum was aimed at kids and I was feeling a little blah.
I really had no idea where to head, new I wanted a lens hood for my telephoto lens and walked between stations to find that. I wandered a fair bit, found a paper shop tried not to spend too much there.
Then it was hotel, change, trains and a plane.  It was a hellish trip to the airport, my Japanese failed me and I did not end up on the quick train but a slow train and ended up running late which meant I had to check a bag I did not want to and got stung on excess.  I then was escorted to the gate and although I had not been in the airport more than twenty minutes.  The change over in Sydney was mental, not that organised it seemed.

I was sad to leave Japan.  Sad to be coming home, I never ever wanted this, I wanted to share this home coming and devastated it is not like that.
More on being home later.

5/52 Konnichiwa

Originally uploaded by LPM

Not dead, just busy. Last few days and no time on trains to blog.

This morning I yet again packed the back pack of doom and headed for the trains in rush hour.  It was not as bad as I thought it was going to be, I took off the the large backpack and man handled it on an off the trains.  The JR line has carriages with no seats, all the seats in the carriage are flip up and are not used during the peak hour.
Then it was negotiating the main Tokyo station and onto the Shinkansen and then a change onto a dinky local train.  The JR station in Nikko is apparently one of the oldest in Easter Japan and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.  I have now seen a Frank Lloyd Wright building my mother has not!
I got on the bus with all the other tourists and headed off to see the sights.  It was a five temples in one day, shuffling around with pilgrims and tourists alike.  They were astounding in parts and a little worn in others.  It was interesting to see in one of them that they were restoring the paint work.   The temple was covered in plastic sheeting and people sat on low stools surrounded by lights and archic painting equipment, stoves, pots etc.  It was interesting to watch it was a no photography area.  Another temple had a dragon painted on the ceiling and the echo if the room meant you get a ringing clap under the dragons head, it is called the roaring dragon for that reason.  There were lots of pilgrims, as far as I can work out praying in the temples can become expensive.  Money in the box to pray and then fortunes, prayer sticks, plaques and charms mainly for prosperity and wealth.  For good or bad the Japanese approach to religion reminds me of the medieval catholic church without the guilt or the Ferengi which is a little odd because I don’t think anyone is out for swindling.  I find it all a little strange but considering my lack of Japanese and the fact it is religion I am not willing to ask.
So, I looked, climbed and wandered.  I braved the food, not really knowing what was on offer I went for a steamed bun, which was really fluffy with a nice meaty gravy filling.  I was well impressed with that discovery, I will be eating more of those for my lunches.  Spoke to a nice American fellow at one point.  I really am noticing the face most people travel in groups.  The JR woman when booking my accommodation said it was rare and found some places that would not take me.  It is quite odd really, I suspect if I was male or staying in a hostel it might not be so bad.
Anyway, I got cold, my knees complained so I headed back to the train station, picked up my bag, rode in a doily cab and got to the very expensive place I am staying in.  (Note, next time I go to a country that does not speak English I am getting a language course, this time I did not have time nor  in the right head space this time round.)  The staff member was very helpful but I quickly realised he could not go off track of the general hotel stuff. The room has two beds in it and is huge.  I am provided with PJ style outfit, lilac for the girls, blue for the boys.  I gathered my bravery together and went to soak my bones, dressed in my PJs.  The baths are segregated so it is nudity as a matter of course.  I managed to met an older lady on the way out but had the room too myself.  I soaked for half an hour in the mineral spring outside bath.  It was lovely, my bones feel so much better.  Of course there was the amusement of the floating boobs.  I then waited for dinner.
Dinner, well I did not want to eat in my room but… my table is at the end in the middle with me facing the room, proclaiming I sit by myself.  To top it off the waiter told me there was a drink provided and which would I like, pointing to the list in Japanese.  I told him I did not read Japanese and what were the options.  There, I went off script and he just kept asking me if I wanted a drink or no.  It the end he got someone else to service me who could tell me the juices on the list.  It was horrible.  I managed to work out oolong tea but that was about it.  I felt so stupid.  This uncomfortableness was compounded by my being seated alone.
So the meal, five very nice course but bloody small, the beef was divine and the corn soup really corny.  It was great food just not enough, I had climbed many stairs!
There is no internet in my room so I am sat here in the lobby which has been nice because after the meal people have drifted in and out, some played pool others read the hotel manga.  I will admit to sitting in the corner, skype chatting and drinking a beer.  The downside is they smoke down here, burggh.  I am going to take it easy tomorrow, maybe get a massage and generally give my body a rest.

Shibuya

Originally uploaded by LPM

Today’s blog is in bullet form:

• Washing, the laundry service was very expensive.
• Found laundrymat and very helpful patron, don’t think I shrunk anything.
• Wrote postcards
• Had a nap
• Finally able to withdraw money, important in a cash based society
• Sorted plans for next two day, Nikko for hot springs.
• Went to Shibuya on a whim, cue sensory over load.
• Bought gloves, had to sit down with the price.
• Got fleeced at dinner, the veg set down in front of me was not complimentary, glad I sent the tea away.
• Took some very cool photos.
• Have decided I am like an over dressed goth in London, this causes stares and people to spontaneously ask where I am from. (I am starting to think the blonde hair has something to add to this.)
• I have packed my bags again. Off in the morning, in rush hour. Erk!
• My back is sore and I am starting to get tired, still having fun.

Today is Joyce’s Birthday, I called her this morning and we had a quick chat before I set off to the station, gathering more strange looks, especially from elderly women who are not adversed to staring. I got onto the platform in plenty of time, I did not want a repeat of last time. (Mind you looking at the tickets, missing the train meant I arrived earlier than I would have on the correct train!)
I on the train I sat by myself and watched the inside of tunnels a lot.
Once in Hiroshima I tried to withdraw money, this time managing to get the teller to take my card but it decline the request. Thankfully my Australian card gave results but I am quite unhappy with this outcome. I decided breakfast was in order and I found the McDonald’s breakfast hot dog irresistible. It was a good start to my morning, I think all countries should have them. Then it was a win at the post office with the phrase book and hand gestures school of Catherine communications. Also another win at the tourist information booth and finding the correct street car. Trams, I have no idea why I get a warm fuzzy feeling when I see them, I suspect because there are not that many places that use them. After asking at the tourist office when I had to pay I got on with the flurry of westerners and little old ladies and headed to the A-bomb dome stop.
You get off at the stop and immediately you can see this shell of a building. I suspect most people read the guide books before they arrive and know what they are looking at, if this civilisation falls I am not sure if they will understand why a civilisation maintained a derelict building, suspending it in time, that time being, August 6th 1945, 8.15am. The time Little boy was dropped on Hiroshima. The A-bomb building which is listed as a world heritage sight was one of the few buildings left standing after the bomb, it is a time capsule, the rubble around it has not been touched, it has been shored up and repaired to maintain that post destruction state. It dominates the landscape, a twisted reminder that can be seen from most of the memorial park. It is a sobering site.
I walked along the rivers edge past the quite unattractive 1960’s style tower to the mobilized students. These were school children in the area, pulling down buildings as fire breaks if the town got bombed like pretty much the rest of Japan. They were forced by the government to do this. It was there I saw the first lot of paper cranes. At least 50 bunches of a thousand of them, folded with the wish for piece on each one. Gently threaded on strings and gathered in strands to be hung on the hooks provided.
I crossed the bridge into the peace park proper and to see the Children’s Peace Monument. This is the monument erected in remembrance of Sasaki Sadako and the other children who have lost their lives and the furtherment of of peace on the planet. I remember reading the story of Sadako and her thousand paper cranes in primary school, the story has stayed with me. She hope folding 1000 would grant her wish to live. She folded more than a 1000 but lost her battle, she was 13 when she died. (some stories say she did not reach the goal of a thousand, the peace memorial says she reached a thousand, I believe that.) Those cranes have come to symbolise the struggle for complete nuclear disarmament that Hiroshima has taken upon its self to promote. Children from around the world make them. The memorial has a dozen large open sided boxes containing cranes, filled with cranes. The cranes are in strands, containers or mosaics. There are hundreds of thousands of cranes and from what I could work out they are removed quite regularly. There was a set from Urquhart Primary, in Ballarat, astounding. While I was there a school group turned up with two bunches of cranes. They had a little ceremony that involved a lot of bowing and hats off. It was touching. I left before I burst into tears.
As a little side note, a lot of Japanese school children when out on excursion wear matching caps, this seems to be able to keep track of the children. I saw one school where three different grades appeared to wear different hats. The school uniforms are all quite similar so I suspect the hats are needful. Even if they don’t wear a uniform they have matching hats. I also noticed a lot of these school groups appeared to have a official photographer with them too, quite surreal.
Okay, so I drifted off, exploring, finding the mound where the ashes of unidentified victims lie and the new Korean monument. The Koreans were forced labours and about 10% of the causalities where Korean, the Japanese did not recognise them as victims for a long time. The giant turtles head was lost under a mantle of cranes and origami turtles.
Then it was a sit in the memorial hall before marvelling at the symmetry of the memory flame, cenotaph and the A-bomb dome. I then attempted to walk to the Museum of Peace. This was somewhat hampered by my appearance, it appears I could look like I speak English. This meant two stops of laboured year six English questions. I really did not mind, I did catch one lass pointing at my hair. I smiled and bent down, she had a good look and giggled a lot. I was stopped twice on the way to the Museum, and also had lots of students saying hello to me and any other westerner they could see. A lot of these children were visiting from outside the big cities, I suspect the tourists were some of the first westerners they had seen. It was amusing.
Once inside the museum it was less amusing with the noise but it did mean I did not cry in there. TO be honest it was very hard, looking at buildings and letters from Churchill did not have the impact of children’s school uniforms, tattered bloodied and the date of death written next to them. Hair that had fallen out of the victims in the days after the bombs, toys and personal effect. Photos of the victims. Skin and fingernails, I had to stop there and move out of that room. The noise levels went down as the awful and macabre artefacts dealt there terrible testament.
The largest impact for me were some of Sadako’s cranes, folded by herself in hospital and donated by her family. They are tiny. She made the progressively smaller and in the end would use a needle to fold them.
It makes me wonder if anyone had any idea of the long term effects of a nuclear bomb. And now that we do we still think it is a reasonable devise to protect a country with. The sheer lack of humanity of these leaders just gob smacks me and don’t get me started on the cost and where that money comes from and better use for it. It makes me want to belt heads together.
So I really needed a break from that and headed out to be sprung on by three school groups. I retreated to the other side of the river, took in the memorial for hair and went in search of dinner.
I found a place that served Okonomiyaki, the savoury pancake pizza thing and the Hiroshima style that they are well known for.
Then it was on the tram, making old ladies giggle and arriving an HOUR early for the train. I am currently on the train, rushing towards Tokyo and with no idea what I will do tomorrow and if my bank card will work, I live the high life I do.

A bit of a short day with the sightseeing but my legs and hips are tired so it was needed, also it was a high light day and I did not want to have to rush the world heritage samurai castle at Himeji.
Time was spent on Skype as I was feeling a little meh, I possibly stopped a source of this but the chats this morning helped no end in cheering me up.
So I wandered through some covered streets towards the general direction of the castle. I found a supermarket and found some dried fruit but not a salad which I really wanted. I also stumbled on an international friendly festival with foods from all over the world. I looked at the two Australian stalls but could not work out what they were selling, I felt this did not bode well so drifted off to see if I could work where the castle was. I emerged out of the tents and high above the trees was floating a tower of wonderful beauty.
English castles loom, they impose and look menacing. The delicacy of this castle is astounding and it makes sense it is described as White Heron Castle. It is there, there is no doubt about it, it is big and dominates but it does not look that deadly, till you get close. The moat is wide, it was made wider when barbarians introduced guns to the Japanese. I think the barbarians in this point were the Portuguese. The defences were clever and varied, and many bare similarities to western castles. Murder holes but with lots of head room to stab at intruders with long spears. Narrow points of entry so that the enemy could be funnelled in slaughter lanes. There was a place that samurai could fall on their swords but it appeared the experts were divided on this. Like many grand homes there were changes in hands the the cost of arms of the owners appeared over the place, even a cross when one owner became Christen. This appears not be a religious epiphany but more business related, Christens sold the gunpowder for the guns.
Dolphins adorn the tips of the roof in attempt to dis wade fire from destroying the castle. This being the main reason there are not many surviving castles, being made mainly wood they burned well. Interestingly, most of the castles burned not because of war but because of lightening strikes. Considering many were on the plains and were the highest buildings around this is not that much of a surprise. The construction of the castles tended towards stone bases, that had graceful fan curved sides to be topped with a building constructed mainly wattle and daub style with massive beams supporting it all. The fan curved were built for strength from earthquakes and make it harder to climb up.
The castle had developed a lean and was threatening to topple and had cracked a number stones in the foundations. Now the Japanese are ally not afraid of taking something down, labelling it all and replacing the busted bits the same way as the original builders did. So they removed the insides of the castle, replaced the cracked stones and a huge inner column and the rebuilt the hole thing. Because their historical buildings are made of wood this replacement activity has been going on for many years. They are meticulously in their calculations and left of and replaced sections accounted for. Sections from the base are laid outside the castle grounds with an explanation.
I went around the castle with the English speaking guide and an American couple. Although there was plenty of explanations in English it was helpful to have someone to point out all the interesting bits and tell the stories. His passion for the castle was evident. He even explained the way of praying at the shrines and the reasons behind the clapping and ringing of the rattle (some god need to told to listen), it made it a much more enjoyable time. Down near one of the bailey entrances a young lady in traditional dress sat, there for the express purpose of having her picture taken with tourists. There was no charge for this and there was even a ’shutter clicker’ to take your photo if you wanted. I love the description, he had it in big letters on his back.
I took some time out after the tour, it was almost two hours long and we had climbed to the very top of the castle with what appeared to be a lot Japan. Whilst sitting and drinking a little Japanese gentleman came and greeted me, he sat and chatted in very good English with me. A retired chap with two children and four grandchildren, he had worked in a department store when he was working. I got the impression that he spent a lot of his day doing this. It seemed to be a good way of meeting interesting people.
I went next door to the Gardens. Lovely Japanese style gardens, taking nature a moulding into a stylised perception of beauty. They are stunning but in some respects all most antiseptic, especially when you see a man picking up the too large pieces of gravel from a path or the meticulous trimming of pine trees into shape, needle by needle. I think I possibly gardened out, it was an odd feeling when I realised one of the main reasons I used to hunt gardens out was because Anthony was fond of gardens. Odd discovery that, I am having those moments a fair bit, especially when thinking, oh Anthony would like that or I should get that little thing for Ant, he would like that, I wonder when that will stop? So after taking a lot of photos of koi and beautifully manicured landscapes I headed to the hurly burly of the main shopping ways.
It was there that the realisation I stood out, really stood out came about. I was on my own and ambling, I had a camera on my shoulder but I am alone. The number of women I have seen like that I can count on one hand. Liberating but disconcerting at the same time. I am getting used to the stares and the fact I can not just fade into the background, an addition of companion would change me into the more normal vision of a western tourist.
So I got back to the hotel room early, wrote some postcards and dressed for dinner. I had bought a dress with me I was going to wear it. I had seen a teppenyaki restaurant and figured that might be interesting food.
I went in search of an ATM that would take my card and failed. I realised I had not bought my phrase book so went to get that also, and headed out even though I was annoyed about the cash issue.
In the restaurant is became apparent that it was going to be an interesting evening, there were hotplates at the tables and there maybe some cooking required. I had to wait whilst a spot became free. Once seated it was apparent that there was no English menu, cue panic from me. The poor waitress spoke little English. In a desperate bid for food I hauled out the phrase book and asked her what she would recommend. This I felt was pretty either brave or fool hardy. I got asparagus and bacon with mayonnaise type sauce delivered in a foil boat that cooked on the hotplate. It was good. I was still hungry and found something that looked like chicken satay, there ensued some miming that I took to mean chicken legs and then we worked out I was happy with garlic, salt and a little chilli. I am not sure if the waitress really like the challenge but she did smile through out the ordeal. The meal arrived and it was chicken joints. I chewed off the meat, sucked up the sauce and put it all down to experience. I was quite relieved to leave the restaurant because it had been quite stressful. I have realised that the art of hand gestures and a phrase book will only get you so far, having someone else to share the communication burden does help make it less mental. Mind you if I did not have that phrase book I would be in trouble.
I went back to my to my tiny hotel room, packed my bag and got a call from home. It was Joyce with Tudor wearing a sign around her neck, proclaiming “9 more sleeps”. Tudor was not impressed with this display and showed her displeasure, Joyce has a scratch to prove it.
It was an up and down day. I am beginning to feel quite isolated but enjoying myself all the same. The realisation that many of my friends will be posting through the night is also becoming apparent as well.

I watching Japan whiz past in a stream of neon and tungsten light. Grid patterns of huge apartment blocks and intricate, bright advertisements fly past the window as Voltaire plays in my ears and I type upon shiny silver keys. I am on the bullet town headed to what I hope will be the highlight of my trip, Himeji and it’s samurai castle. Give the Shoguns palace and my reaction to the nightingale floors I suspect either a heart attack or orgasm is in store given the photos I have seen.

Once again the bullet train is lacking wifi either free or otherwise. I am surprised that there is no network on the train, maybe it moves too fast?

Today has been one of swings and round abouts. I was very annoyed that I flat batteries for the camera this morning, but it did not take long to charge and I decided a taxi was an expense I wanted because the back pack is still awfully uncomfortable.

I was starving by the time I got into Kyoto and off the bus with the old ladies with pointy elbows and French tourists. I walked past the McDonald’s and double back, deciding a familiar menu and choice was what the doctor ordered. I went through the pointing routine for a Big Mac meal, discovering the staple of McDonald’s is no featured on the main boards. I could have had an iced tea or coffee with my meal but I went for the Coke Zero, no diet coke is available in Japan. (before any of you start throwing stones I an odd lady, I have eaten at Micellein starredrrestaurants but I can see the merit in KFC and Maccas, I don’t look down at your snacks) After Nat telling me McDonald’s was different I was curious enough to purchases. Well, it was different, not as much sugar in the buns, and the sauce on the Big Mac more cheesy. Not sure if this was extra salt or MSG because there certainly was no lack of salt on the chips. It was certainly a Big Mac but it did taste different, more big maccy. I if I am again in need of a quick choice I might try the local burgers, as I will find a very posh restaurant as well.

I was planing to do the imperial palace, of which you need to arrive early to book a tour, apparently applying over the internet is the way to go but you can rock up as a foreigner. It was in the palace gardens I had my first Japanese asking if I needed help. For a reserved culture it is unnerving to stand around feeling and I suspect looking quite lost and no one to ask if you are okay. In the UK, if you looked lost people would ask. I had worked out where I had to go when this guy asked but I had a chat with him and thanked him for his kindness. I arrived and found the office closed, I figured for lunch, it took a full 15 minutes to dawn on me it was a Saturday. Oops. Obviously I am enjoying the holiday!

So this meant I was not as far behind as I thought and I was back on track for some shrines and temples with no plan of attack. I used the method of what ever bus came first and was welcomed at the bus by an old man having a pee. Very odd. Anyway, went to a temple/shrine. There was lots of little shrines and music coming out of the bigger area and a fellow with two professional grade Nikon around his next. My spidery sense kick in. I decided milling around was a great idea. I wandered into main court yard and spied a young lady, toddler in a kimono with her mother and grandfather. It turned out she was there for a blessing and it was her third birthday, a special day and she was wearing a kimono for the first time. Her mother was very happy for me to take her photo and whilst this was happening a bride and groom appeared. The little girl went for blessing and I took photos of the bride and the other bride who appeared. I was rather pleased with this turn of events.

I then meandered across to the silver pavilion, using the first bus method again. I shuffled through the serene Zen gardens with the buckets loads of other tourists and ran the gauntlet of the tourist tat. I am thinking of getting an umbrella.

I started walking along the canal with the thought of going to another shrine but to be honest, it was so lovely and there were nice shops, local tourist handicraft ones I just wandered. There was a woman dress up as a Maiko and I just drifted. My hip is suffering a little so slowing down might be a good idea.

I realised I needed to get back to the train pretty quick as I had Astro boy stuff to pick up. The bus was slow, I was distracted by a kimono fashion show, Astro boy merchandise and then got lost. I may have missed the train, I may have come close to crying.

I went up on the platform, to wait half an hour and caught the eye of three older ladies. They indicated to sit between them and with the use of the phrase book, communicated. One of the ladies made me a crane. I gave her a badge. It was a lovely moment and made up for missing the train.

In the end it was only an hour trip and I am now in my hotel room. No photo of this robe, it is polyester not cotton.

I need sleep, there is a samurai castle tomorrow.

4/53 Across the nighting gale floor.

Originally uploaded by LPM

I am on a local bus in Kyoto, I was just so tired last night that blogging was a little beyond me.
Yesterday I had breakfast in the hotel and was introduced to the astounding concept that is the Japanese take on a Western style breakfast. I was not tempted by the spaghetti in tomato sauce nor the steamed broccoli but I did go for the ham and the ‘fried potatoes’ otherwise known as chips. I also went for cornflakes, I knew it was going to be a while before I ate.
I headed out to find the parade route, stopping at a temple on the way. The temple was lovely, made of dark woods and monks wandering around. One of the temples was covered in a huge metal clad building and scaffolding, part of the restoration project of the three hundred year old building. Wandering around in your socks was interesting but the plastic bags given to you carry your shoes did produce a irritating rustling sound as everyone moved around the complex.
Then it was a long walk through central Kyoto, stopping to look at McDonald’s on the way. I think they don’t do Big Macs which is very surprising. I did not sample their food, choosing to move on quickly. I found the parade route, bought a program from the very nice and enterprising seller, who was approaching all the westerners in English. The program was expensive but does list all the costumes and the eras that they come from, very helpful.
I figured a corner on the parade route was a good idea and the placement of the older Japanese men with their cameras confirmed this choice. It appears that photography is a popular pass time for the older man in Japan. I only spotted a few younger women with DSLRs on the parade route. Plenty of men of all nationalities though.
I sat an waited, chatting to a Dutch couple and also entertaining the Japanese men with lens changes and preparing memory cards. (Which I am glad I did). Watching the police slowly and steadily change the traffic flow and in short time frame block the parade route and allow pedestrian crossing was a site to behold, it appeared the whistles were standard for directing traffic and the drivers seemed patient. The parade approached our position and that point the two nights of accommodation at 9000 yen a night was well worth it. There was armour, peasant clothing, men on horse back, kimonos of all sort of types including the 12 layer one. There was a cast of thousands. It was brilliant. I sat on the same bollard for three to four hours, taking lots of photos using the telephoto lens, I had a ball. I chose to shot in raw and filled the the 8gb card quite quickly. I moved onto the 2gb card and then had to move onto the next 8gb card. When the end of the parade came past I headed off to chase it and see where it ended up at the shrine. There I got to see them remove some sort of portable shrine from its wheels and carry it in. It was an epic time and I am really pleased I did. The realisation that if I had not been travelling on my own then it might have proved difficult to take photos and then follow the parade was a little sad.
I then wandered to see if I could fit in another shrine but they closed earlier than I thought. I ended up in a garden chatting to some lovely Canadians, you tend to crave English conversation after a while. I then meandered through the closing craft market and headed into Gion, the older district. Where the Geisha hang out apparently. Having read the Lonely Planet Guide I had not held much hope in seeing any. I noticed lots of tourist milling about and over heard some conversations. They were hunting geisha. My lord, come 6 o’clock there are flashes going off all over the place. I saw mainly Maiko, apprentice Geisha, with the decoration in their hair and elegantly walking in heavy kimonos trying to avoid the photographers. It was a very surreal experience. I was not expecting to see any let alone photograph them. They move so quick you need to use a flash as they whisk past. They duck the person in front of them and generally want to get out of the way. I suspect the start of their working day is running this gauntlet. I am not sure how to feel about taking their photos, I was as bad as the rest of the tourists, it must be invasive but it is their job to look like that so I don’t know. I would love to know their thoughts on the whole situation.
I rode the bus the long way with one of the Canadains who I had met up again whist stalking geisha. We took the long way by accident but frankly my legs were tired and I needed the rest.
I managed to find food, again Chinese but I was starving and sweet and sour pork sounded brilliant.
I then braved the local JR (Japan Rail) lines with lots of other commuters and found my hotel. I am getting a little sick of the back pack, it just does not seem to be sitting right and very awkwardly weighted even though the boots are in the bottom. I am tempted to repack the blasted thing again to try and make it a bit less of a pain to carry.
I stayed in a Japanese style room, I was so tired that I did a rubbish photo, check mail and went to sleep. Unfortunately sleeping on the floor on a futon is not that brilliant for me. I woke a couple of times in the night stiff. I don’t think the buck wheat pillows are helping that much either but certainly the combination was a little crazy.

I was going to get an early start this morning and was awake at 7pm but got distract by Skype and CEB. I got to Kyoto on a normal commuter train because I just missed the express train. This was mildly interesting but I think I missed most of the crazy rush hour although I did have to endure a soppy couple.
On my way out of the station I was singled out as an English speaker by some primary school aged children. The wanted my time and asked some questions. It was very cute and I am annoyed I did not have badges to give them. I had to give them business cards instead,
I managed to get the bus to the Golden Pavilion but not miss the hordes of high school kids. The Pavilion is indeed gold and very shiny. It was just beautiful. I finally found some postcards and have to begin to start writing them.
I caught a bus to the Nijo Castle. There is not that much left of the cast per say but there is an impressive Shogun palace complete with a Nightingale Floor. It sings, well sort of. The floors boards are set so any movement makes them squeak, not creak like stairs but sing sort of. This apparently means that no one can sneak upon the Shogun. How cool is that, I was almost beside myself as the floor actually works, it was quite musical with the be socked tourists wandering over it. It was beautiful. I could have died then happy for an odd moment. Sometimes it is the little things. To find something I have only read about in books is real and still around is great. Hence it is the subject of today’s self portrait. The palace was a sight as well, the rooms with their sliding panels all with astounding paintings was a sight to behold. So different from European stately homes but still with the grandeur that only money can buy.
The other palace sadly was not open.
I wandered around the gardens and was happily distracted by the wonderful landscape that the landscape gardens had worked for thousands of years to achieve. I looked for the important kitchens that were mentioned a lot but could not find them.
I was a little sight seeing out by this stage and really did not want to attempt the imperial palace in such a short space of time. So I headed on the bus over to Gion again, this time in the light take photos of the streets before dark. I also went into a shrine area that is still being used both as a craft, tourist tat sellers and shrine. People were being wishes and hanging them as well as donating money, rattling the bells and praying or wishing. Not really sure on that point.
I wandered through the restaurants in Gion but I really had no idea what food they served and given the ones who did have photographs it was very posh. I found a slightly less posh place on the main road and eat an odd concoction of fried chicken and egg on top of rice. I am a little concerned for my lack of fresh veg at this point.
Then, after a beer I figured I shall take the plunge and become a geisha pap. I have two that were worth the slightly dirty feeling of flash photography on a celebrity.

I am now back in the hotel, in a western style room, very big compared to other places I have stayed in.
Time to sleep soon.

Lounging around

Originally uploaded by LPM

I am on a bullet train bound for Kyoto. Whizzing through Japan at a great rate of knots. The seats are comfortable and leg room is great, besides the fact I have the back pack wedged in front of my knees. The uniforms of the staff, once again are interesting, the ladies in pastels and pinafores, the men in caps and slight captain like. The ride is very smooth and noise minimal. No wifi though.
The view from the window is of a crowded country, no land wasted, houses crammed together with no formal shape to the blocks of land. Rice paddies everywhere and green houses in suburbia, I have never seen land at such a premium. A forest of television antenna and power lines dominate the skyline. There is little little and the whole Japan is clean rings true. It does look quite worn in places though, concrete stained by the weather and dishevelled look to some of the houses. The houses seem to show no age beside being modern, the style of housing does not seem to change so much here.
There is an order to Japan, it works well but I do wonder what is being suppressed in order to obtain this level of society. Maybe I am looking at Western society in the 1950’s with the added bonus of a massive honour system, little like Catholic guilt. Hmmm
I am now in a hotel full of school children, another small room with a groovy robe.
I had a job interview this morning, it was on skype and I am not really sure how it went. To get the job would be great but I think I stuffed it up and don’t feel confident at all, really who is going to give a $53,000 to someone without a qualification. Any way.
I arrived at the very flash Kyoto station and managed to find the information booth, complete with volunteer English speakers. Kyoto is geared up for the English speaking tourist to the point the Japanese native rearranged and simplified a sentence for a Spanish speaker in English. I was very impressed, the speakers who do English well seem to be able to keep up with my accent and speed, very helpful.
I found the hotel, checked in with the Australian school kids from Oakleigh South and settled my back pack before heading out for lunch. Another small room but better laid out and of course the pod style bathroom.

Dave will be impressed with my find of a restaurant that served Okonomiyaki, described as Japanese pizza but more like a omelette pancake. It was very good, the rice sticky and the first time I have used chopsticks in Japan. Watching the little old lady beside me devour a Okonomiyaki with chopsticks gave me the technique needed. I then cack handed it but managed not to spill food on myself and I put the mayonnaise on it unlike the other western family who seemed to think I had horns coming out of my head!
Then it was half an hour with a delightfully helpful travel agent who found me a hotel when the whole of Kyoto is booked out because of the COSTUME PARADE tomorrow. She found a room outside about half an hour on the JR, a Japanese style room that is going to make me cry with the expense and followed by western style room the following night, not so expensive. She also lined up a room in Himeji so I can see the CASTLE!! She found places that were cheap, she understood the need and followed through. I asked her about western women travelling alone and she did say they were quite rare. That explains a lot. I will be spending a day in Hiroshima before heading back to Tokyo on the train. I will be getting in close to midnight. I found the JR booking man terribly surly and a pain in the arse. He could not get me out of his sight quick enough.
I visited the post office to met another helpful man and then it was to the bus station with another helpful man. I caught a bus to one of the temples, the bus driver coping well with what I suspect is another tourist want to pay when they get on, not getting off like the real people in the know.
I found the temple as the helpful English announcement told me to get off. The English is only for tourist spots but that in itself is great.
I caught the temple in the dying light, I will have to go back at some point, possibly after tomorrow. Tomorrow is the costume parade http://www.city.kyoto.jp/koho/eng/festivals/jidai.html I am looking forward to it big time. It is sort of coincidence I am here for it but I beyond excited, photography wise it should be great!! (For those betting, this will spike the results.)
I found the tourist tat shops interesting as the quality is not too bad at all, I can see me spending a little of my money in them. Also of course the Astro boy shop. Wheeee.
I went with Karen’s suggestion of gyoza for dinner, although it was served in a Chinese restaurant, I went for the garlic ones, I think there is a good reason to be single at the moment! It was served with egg drop soup, something I really like, I hate miso soup.
I caught the bus back and managed not too look to much like a tourist, although the camera and taking photos of lights would have not helped. I went to the post office at just before nine o’clock! How cool is that? I have decided to get a smallish suitcase for goodies, I am 5kg or more under the weight limit and qantas take more than one piece. My back pack won’t take much more than 18kg and I can’t carry that much!! A roll on case will mean I can distribute the weight a little more evenly.
So, one night in this hotel, then two nights in the next one but in different rooms. Then two nights in the next one, from there I have no idea.
I think a spa retreat will be in order next week.